Last summer, Food & Wine magazine named St. Petersburg as “One of America’s Next Best Food Cities”, but editors maybe should’ve extended the search a few miles north to Pinellas Park. Within the county’s fourth-largest city are dozens and dozens of small, family-owned and operated restaurants that deliver striking and sometimes unfamiliar flavors from all corners of the globe. 

Sap Sap Street Eats, run by Chef Johnathon Phaengvisay and several of his family members, is just one of many Southeast Asian restaurants that call the city of less than 60,000 people home. “Sap” means “delicious” in the Lao language—and Phaengvisay and company deliver exactly that. 

Lao cuisine is famously aromatic and deliciously pungent, often characterized by the use of fresh herbs, chilies, seafood pastes and fermented fish sauces. 

Sap Sap Street Eats is carryout only, but not for long

The newly-opened (or re-opened) Sap Sap Street Eats shares a carryout restaurant space with Sumo Hibachi Express at 6975 66th St. N, but packs a flavorful punch out of its communal kitchen. 

Its first few months of service have been to-go only, but its ownership hopes to change that soon with the forthcoming addition of a shared dining room.  

When carrying a meal out of the small Laotian restaurant, even the sheer weight of the plastic and styrofoam containers feels impressive and indicative of a great dining experience. The package fills your car with an intoxicating, intensely-fragrant smell that can make a driver quickly speed back home.

Sap Sap Street Eats menu

Sap Sap’s menu combines traditional Lao eats with popular Thai dishes like panang curry, basil stir fry, and pad see ew—a common blend of cuisines considering the two countries border each other. Fast casual favorites like fried egg rolls, crab rangoons, battered chicken wings and loaded fries also have their place on the approachable menu. 

Vietnamese food—found throughout the Northern Pinellas city much easier than its Laotian counterpart—is often represented by popular dishes like pho and banh mi. A few stalwarts of Lao cuisine are sai gok (aka Lao sausages) laab, a chopped meat salad with fresh herbs and a spicy papaya salad. This trio is a great place to start when ordering at Sap Sap, especially for diners stepping into the restaurant a bit unfamiliar with Southeast Asian cuisine. 

Sai gok ($8.99)—which goes well with a side of sticky rice ($2.50) and spicy dipping sauce jeow som ($2.50)—is tender pork sausage with a thin, crispy dark brown skin. The plain sticky rice balances the aromatic sausage spiced with sizable chunks of lime leaves, garlic, ginger and lemongrass—while the spice and acidity from the dipping sauce cuts through the fattiness of the pork. 

Smaller-format dishes to add to an introductory spread at Sap Sap include its housemade beef jerky ($8.99), sauteed green beans ($8.99), spicy tofu bites ($7.50) and sticky, fried pork ribs ($9.99)—but save room for larger dishes including soups, curries, stir fries and salads. 

Thum mak hoong ($10.95) or Lao papaya salad is typically a bit more pungent and spicier than its Thai counterpart, often incorporating fermented fish sauce and crab paste that packs intense umami notes. Goong sae mam pa ($14.99) is commonly referred to as “Lao shrimp ceviche” and can offer a raw, chilled respite from the intensely-savory flavors of Sap Sap’s curries or stir fries—despite packing a spicy punch from bird’s eye chilies. 

And those with a high spice tolerance can always order any of its Lao salads “baw phet baw sap”—which roughly translates into “if it isn’t spicy, it isn’t good.” 

Nam khao ($12.99), one of the more popular dishes at Sap Sap, is a must-order item for a good reason. It’s salty, fresh, texturally interesting and simply fun to eat. Chunks of crispy coconut rice are mixed with a pink, tangy fermented pork sausage called som moo, cilantro, scallions, dried chilies and fried shallots—all dressed in a tangy lime and fish sauce dressing. 

You can’t go wrong with common Thai soups like tom yum and tom kai gai, but opt for khao piek sen with a side of crispy pork belly ($13.99) for its homemade, pillowy tapioca noodles alone. Thicky, slippery tapioca noodles sit in a simple chicken broth and are garnished with cilantro, green onions, fried garlic and fried onions—a warm, simple soup that can help balance all of the intense flavors happening elsewhere in the meal. 

But when the noodles sit in the chicken broth for a bit too long, they can start to become gummy and overly-soft. So keep that in mind when placing a to-go order at Sap Sap. 

A new generation in the Sap Sap Street Eats kitchen

Folks may recognize Sap Sap Street Eats as its former iteration, Sap Sap Cafe that was located on Park Boulevard N before it quietly closed in 2023. For about two years, Pinellas Park lived without the Phaengvisay family’s no-frills, flavor-packed Laotian cuisine, but the family business reopened in the spring of 2025—less than three miles from its flagship restaurant. 

When Sap Sap Cafe was still open, Johnathon’s mother Chanh helmed the kitchen as its head chef, but at Sap Sap 2.0, Johnathon runs things with the help of his sister, wife and other family members. For the most part, he still cooks the same dishes that were featured at the restaurant’s previous iteration, but he told Creative Loafing Tampa Bay that he wants his customers to know that this business is starting fresh. 

He also wants to add a few of his own dishes onto the menu eventually. 

There’s even a handful of dishes that Chef Johnathon ate during his childhood that he regularly re-creates for his customers. He said that as a child, he didn’t even know that the stuffed coconut crepe known as bánh xèo was even a Vietnamese dish, since his mom often cooked it for the family. 

The Phaengvisay family version, dubbed the Sap Sap omelet ($13.50), is stuffed with minced chicken and shrimp, bean sprouts and green onions, and has been a menu mainstay since Sap Sap’s original iteration. 

While Sap Sap Street Eats only offers to-go service for the time being (unless you’re lucky enough to snag one of the few bar seats), Phaengvisay tells CL that he and his family are working creating a shared dining room next door. 

While it’s clear that all of Sap Sap’s dishes are made to order and are delivered piping hot, the restaurant will definitely benefit from its forthcoming dining room. The ability to sit down and enjoy a full spread at the restaurant will give diners a better chance to customize their eating experience and enjoy its comforting fare without having to endure a drive home first. 

Despite the restaurant mainly focusing on Lao and Thai cuisine, several different cooking techniques can be found scattered throughout Sap Sap’s menu—from high-heat sauteeing in woks and dehydrating meats to pounding in a mortar and pestle. Its dynamic menu is designed to attract both Laotian families looking for a taste of home and local residents that need to fulfill their fried cravings. 

Pinellas Park is lucky to have the Phaengvisay family back in business—its matriarch may not be leading the kitchen anymore, but her traditions and recipes still reign supreme at Sap Sap. 

Follow Sap Sap Street Eats

Since Sap Sap Street Eats doesn’t have a website just yet, follow its Facebook at @SapSapLaoCafe or Instagram at @sapsapstreeteats for more information. Sap Sap is now open from noon-3 p.m. and 5 p.m.-9 p.m. Tuesday-Sunday.

Sap Sap Street Eats

6975 66th St. N, Pinellas Park

(727) 545-8580

Asian

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The post Review: Sap Sap Street Eats triumphantly returns to Pinellas Park with traditional Lao cuisine and affordable Southeast Asian fare appeared first on Creative Loafing Tampa.

Located in an unassuming building amidst an undeniably-booming stretch of Central Avenue, this newly-opened cocktail bar and tasting room offers an ultra-curated libations list and intimate menu of small plates to match.

When guests walk through the door, they’re met with a dark, cool hallway-meets-dining room, with a six-person bar to the right and a handful of tables and booths lining the rest of the low-lit, slender space. It’s cool in a figurative sense, and literally, too, with the air-conditioning blasting—a welcome respite from the summer heat.
Although Slim Charmer has only been open for about three months, its staff moves with a sense of ease throughout the minimal space, quickly delivering rounds of small plates, confidently pouring wine and slinging frosted martini glasses.

The intimate cocktail bar and tasting room—with a total capacity of 26—boasts an “if you know, you know” type of vibe (said with the least amount of pretention as possible), with ultra-dim lights, flickering candles, black cement-like walls, slatted wooden ceilings and dark tables cool to the touch.

Executive Chef and co-owner Rob Reinsmith and Chef de Cuisine Scott Grimm start things off classically with market-price oysters with champagne mignonette, cocktail sauce and horseradish—although these accompaniments can change daily. A delicate crudo misto ($18) with yellowtail tuna and Faroe Island salmon is accompanied by buttery Castelvetrano olives, capers, Calabrian chilis and lemon while its other raw fish option—monochromatic hamachi dish with strawberry-rubarb verjus, pink peppercorns, Espelette and a pop of basil ($21)—offers sweeter and fruiter notes contrasting the crudo’s brininess and touch of spice.

Rounding out the small plate offerings are three toasts: a $16 vegetarian option with locally-sourced roasted mushrooms, smoked mushroom cream, Cambozola cheese and vin cotto on sourdough, as well as an $18 option with little neck clams, pancetta, spring onion, Calabrian chili butter and fennel pollen. And if you’re feeling fancy, there’s $26 stracciatella and caviar focaccia toast with pickled shallots, meyer lemon and chives that Chef Reinsmith—who beat Bobby Flay last year—says will stay a constant on the Slim Charmer menu, despite wanting to change other items seasonally.

Beverage Director Sydney Knowlton told Creative Loafing Tampa Bay that the spirit-forward cocktail list ($12-$15) reimagines classics in its enhancement of the room’s dark, and sexy, date night vibe. The apple martini is actually a re-definition and refinement of an often-bastardized American staple, with a 50/50 gin martini, espresso martini, and lychee martini showcasing the individual strengths of a small front-of-house team made up of all bartenders. A small, but mighty, wine list is focused on honest winemaking and breaks the trend of cocktail bars that hit home runs with spirits while phoning in the grapes. Throw in the N/A options, and Knowlton’s stacked lineup makes Slim Charmer a true destination.

For now, the only large format dish on the Slim Charmer menu is an $85 dry-aged, 16-oz. steak accompanied by ramp butter, roasted garlic and a cheesy arugula salad. For the steep price tag, it may make more sense as a shareable, group-centered item, but its flavors were nonetheless comforting and well executed.

Slim Charmer’s menu feels like a “choose your own adventure” game of small bites, easily shareable plates and dishes that cater to a variety of (good) tastes. If Wild Child—Slim Charmer’s sibling concept, opened in 2020—is marked by its Asian-Latin fusion with bright flavors, herby garnishes and pops of acid, Reinsmith’s new venture dims the lights a bit with notes of savoriness, richness and umami that match its sleek, cool atmosphere.

While both restaurants share the overarching “New American” description, Reinsmith says he didn’t want Slim Charmer to be “Wild Child 2.0,” citing more of a Mediterranean and European influence instead.

“Wild Child is a more up-tempo, kind of vivacious restaurant where this is a more tamed, more intimate and laid back environment,” Chef Grimm told CL.

A chef’s creativity can be showcased through the quality and seasonality of ingredients, but also through limitations of space and equipment. Realizing how truly small the Slim Charmer kitchen is, the level of execution and technicality showcased from Chefs Reinsmith and Grimm becomes a tad more impressive.

“This has been a good lesson in restraint, every single component in one of those nine pans definitely needs to be there,” Reinsmith says. “The menu was designed in a way where we can get away with these impactful, bold flavors although it’s easier to execute—the toasts are a great example of that.”

Slim Charmer’s debut menu can be characterized as balanced and cohesive, with future plans to change certain dishes as often as every few weeks. It might be dimly lit inside, but the future is very bright at 2706 Central Ave.

For now, Slim Charmer is open from 5 p.m.-11 p.m. Wednesdays-Thursdays and 5 p.m.-midnight Fridays-Saturdays, with plans to expand operating hours in the future. Its kitchen closes an hour before the bar closes, so make sure to follow last-call protocols.

Reservations via Resy are definitely recommended, although Slim Charmer keeps its bar open for walk-ins. And if you can’t snag a table right away, you can always grab a drink on Wild Child’s patio next door.

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After walking past its air-conditioned seafood market, diners stumble upon a small outdoor bar, a food truck, and a sea of white sand and picnic tables that separate the two. Although it’s not abundantly clear on how to order food at first, employees are quick to let you know to place an order at the bar or walk over to the food truck, where its full menu is handwritten on a white board.

And for the work from home set, a Hookin’ lunch, paired with Green Bench’s Skyway Hazy Double IPA and Motorworks’ Pulp Friction IPA, is a good way to spend an afternoon letting the back of a Macbook casually roast in the midday sun.

We placed our order at the food truck after carefully scouring its whiteboard-written menu, eventually deciding on a sampler platter of conch fritters, smoked chicken wings and fried biscuits ($16.99), smoked wahoo fish dip ($15), pippin’ hot grouper nuggets ($18.99) and its margate fish sandwich special ($14.99) , which came with a side of fried okra.

Standouts included the smoked fish dip which had a sturdy, meatier texture much different than the mayo-laden offerings at grocery stores—a finishing squeeze of lemon lifted the wahoo’s natural sweetness beautifully.

The smoked chicken wings—which we ordered tossed in a sweet-spicy Thai sauce after being lightly deep-fried—arrive hot, and to our delight, moist as all get out. Credit to the cook who tossed the drums and flats just lightly in sauce; the wings were absolutely glistening in the Florida sun and their deep smoky flavor wasn’t compromised by the sticky coating at all. While the sweet chili sauce had a nice bite, these chicken wings are good enough to be eaten plain (no ranch or bleu cheese needed, y’all).

And while great seafood options are a must from a market-adjacent concept like Hookin’ Aint Easy, its barbecue offerings like pulled pork and baby back ribs are an unexpected, yet delightful addition to its menu. A nearby bar goer told the staff that the kitchen just made the “best grouper sandwich” she’s ever had, drawing envy, and while they didn’t make it to our table, the raw oysters, soft shell crab sammy and seafood boil-style crab tray are on the wishlist for next time.

The freshest seafood in town means Hookin’ Aint Easy isn’t exactly cheap eats. Owner Matthew Neumann—a lifelong St. Pete resident and commercial fisherman—either catches everything himself, or personally knows the folks who do, so there’s a rightful price to pay for locally-caught seafood of this quality.

Neumann’s welcoming, friendly nature, combined with Hookin’ Aint Easy’s laid back atmosphere and service make it the perfect place for folks looking for a casual, no-frills, core local dining experience.

According to its Facebook (where specials and menu updates are posted regularly,) scamps, blue crabs, triggers and African pompano are this season’s freshest catches—but next week’s might be totally different.

Hookin Aint’ Easy resides in the sweet spot right between Gulfport and St. Pete. Neumann and his wife Veronica opened the restaurant and bar portion of Hookin’ in the summer of 2022 as an extension of their seafood market next door, which has been open for over two years.

If you’re dining at his outdoor restaurant, chances are Matthew is taking your order, running fresh wahoo to the smoker behind the food truck, or chatting up with regular customers at the bar—doing it all in a pair of worn-in flip flops like a true Florida native.

In between bussing tables and pouring ice-cold beers, you can typically overhear him telling his customers that almost everything Hookin’ sells comes out of the gulf. “I know what I want to eat, and that’s exactly what I put on my menu,” he said one spring afternoon.

Corporate chains and out-of-towners have been trying to capture and capitalize on Old Florida’s prized charm for decades now, but natives (born here, and naturalized, alike) can quickly spot the difference between a true Gulf Coast outpost and a bastardized, Disney-fied version of it.

Hookin’ Aint Easy is the real deal for fresh seafood, but its family-run charm and plain friendly service is a refreshing respite from the dimly-lit dining rooms and white tablecloths driving droves of people to Tampa Bay and beyond.

Hookin’s nautical atmosphere matches its seafood offerings and ultra-casual dining experience, but the best decor at might be the restaurant’s spread of kid’s toys which belong to Matthew and Veronica’s toddler son. It’s truly a family affair at this low-key St. Pete outpost.

And with access to a relaxing beach-like space, live music Hookin’ hosts daily, and a slew of retired regulars looking to have a nice chat, you’re more than likely going to hang out a bit after your meal is finished.

Another round of beers, please.

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The post Matthew Neumann’s seafood shack Hookin’ Ain’t Easy is a must-visit gem of the St. Pete food scene appeared first on Creative Loafing Tampa.

One of my favorite lines from the mega-hit Hamilton is, “Immigrants (we get the job done).” It was true in Revolutionary times and in Ybor City at the dawn of the 20th century. Families seeking a better life settled in Tampa. The Gonzmarts opened the Columbia Restaurant celebrating their Spanish heritage. Across the street, Vincenta and Giuseppe Ferlita opened their macaroni factory, which has now been transformed into a tribute to the Tampa Sicilian Nonna-cooked meals that young Gonzmart shared at his best friend Vincent Palori’s house.

These iconic Ybor City restaurants are now run by the fourth and fifth generations of the Gonzmart clan in the spirit of friendship, family, and community.

As you peruse the menu, your server arrives with warm squares of focaccia brushed with olive oil and sprinkled with dry herbs. It’s a lovely surprise, light and airy.

We decide to begin with a delightful hand-painted oval platter of six arancini—fried breaded risotto balls, mixed with Bolognese, mozzarella and peas. They’re served with a small bowl of fresh sauce that just sings with tomato acidity and is not a bit spicy. You can almost imagine the eager little mouths around their grandmother’s kitchen table, sitting with wide-eyed anticipation, as they give their best buddies an “I told you so” look with each seductive bite.

Choosing entrées is a wonderful challenge. It’s like going through Nonna’s recipe box for traditional pastas or proteins. The baked eggplant terrine (millefoglie di melanzane) layers the soft veggie slices with Grana Padano and pecorino Romano cheeses and tomato sauce topped with a cluster of fresh fragrant basil leaves, whose bright green pops against the glistening red sauce. The imported al dente Sicilian casarecce pasta is lightly sauced and sprinkled with a snow of grated cheese and minced basil. The eggplant has been prepared with care and is not the slightest bit bitter.

Here, the stuffed, rolled, slow-roasted pork is crispy on the outside with a soft, juicy interior sprinkled with fresh herbs. The accompanying large, golden, crisp potato wedges are topped with freshly grated pecorino. And the broccoli rabe sautéd in imported extra virgin olive oil is scattered with nuggets of golden breadcrumbs to add delightful texture. It’s totally winning.

They offer a nice selection of Sicilian wines—remember “what grows together goes together.” My favorite is the renowned indigenous Sicilian grape, Nero d’Avola, which is available by the glass. We also sip a pour from lignum, which is a three-grape blend of better known grapes; it’s also a perfectly pleasant affordable option.

The tiramisù with coffee-dipped ladyfingers, rum and mascarpone cream and a dusting of dark cocoa is some of the best I’ve experienced. Everything is in perfect balance both in flavor and texture. Some other versions have more assertive flavors to stand out, but this has a subtle synchronicity that just delights with every bite. The cream is not gelatinous, the ladyfingers are not the tiniest bit soggy, and the cocoa topping is just the perfect accent as the flavors meld.

The menu implicitly urges us all to acknowledge the privilege in our lives—the very fact that we are eating at this beautiful restaurant and are able to revel in this loving cuisine. Bold type asks:“Please take a moment to remember those Sicilians who came searching for America and instead helped create it.” We must celebrate those who came before us and who sacrificed to create a country believing the words inscribed on the Statue of Liberty “Give me your tired, your poor, your huddled masses yearning to breathe free.” In this political climate where con men reign, we must remember that diversity is what makes America great and sets us apart from the rest of our world.

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After all, it was just a matter of time that the prime shuttered Reading Room space—with its raised beds to grow veggies and herbs—was snapped up by some local restaurateur. But, now the new Two Graces sports a magical colonnade that flows west toward freeFall theatre. It’s got an elegant beadboard ceiling and is complete with fans/heaters, diaphanous drapery, and evocative lighting. To the south, under the magnificent, almost horizontal octopus-like Southern live oak is a dramatic seating area made from a handsome circular balustrade. Of course, what really matters is the food.

Chef’s roasted squash was a veggie standout at Grace, and his riff here is a yummy variation on that theme. This tender roasted squash is stuffed with fregula, those wonderful, tiny semolina pasta balls from Sardinia. The stuffing is loaded with seasonal veggies, in this case tender slices of zucchini and yellow squash all swathed in a light Galveston apple vinaigrette to add pleasant brightness.

The dessert decision is a difficult one with honey-almond cheesecake, always a perennial favorite, and a chocolate brownie with salted caramel ice cream. We were sorely tempted by the mini milkshake, but the accompanying macarons are not made in house, so we settled on the Maple Panna Cotta with fig compote. It’s a flavorful, somewhat dense affair which really comes alive when combined with the succulent fig compote at the bottom of the curved glass. It almost resembles a decorative candle with a gorgeous edible purple bud as a wick.

As at Grace, there’s also a splendid selection of creative craft cocktails, although instead of the neighborhood dogs that haunt the other locale, they’ve opted for bird and flower names from the vodka-based Chocolate Flamingo to the bourbon-laced Azalea. We sampled the “Watson,” a colorful concoction in a martini glass featuring Italian Malfy gin, vibrant orange Aperol bitters, St. Germaine elderflower liqueur, crisp white peach balsamic, and fizz from a topping of Prosecco. My companion pronounces it a walloping graceful hit.

And Kaplan’s long time partner, Lisa Masterson, has assembled a unique wine list with 60 organic, biodynamic, and sustainable wine options to go along with 10 local microbrews on draft. The entire experience is most lovely; the servers are perfectly friendly and attentive, and the magical atmosphere matches the splendid cuisine. In these times of pandemic stress, it’s particularly welcome that Two Graces offers us all such a safe harbor.

The post At St. Pete’s Two Graces the magical atmosphere matches the cuisine appeared first on Creative Loafing Tampa.

But Chef Jeffrey Jew takes diners to Hamlet’s Scandinavia as though we were riding on a Chinese junk. His menu reflects his Norwegian-Cantonese roots. And to transform Duke Ellington’s pithy observation about music to the world of food, “If it tastes good, it is good.”

Jew want us to linger at Lingr. We choose to eat tapas style and eschew the entrees.

First, of course, we eat with our eyes and the hamachi crudo plate is stunning. A quartet of thin half moons of lush yellowtail (hamachi) are placed with the flat sides of the fillet on parallel diagonal planes—as though the fish are swimming in a school. They’re floating in jagged circular pools of citrus buttermilk glistening with dots of translucent green dill oil. Each piece is garnished with a golden chip of crisp lotus root. Plus, there’s a touch of Szechuan pepper, some shreds of orange, flakes of sea salt and overarching wisps of fine cranberry powder. It’s so pretty that you almost don’t want to disturb the composition with your folk. But it’s a magical combo, like a jazz riff that you don’t see coming, but that makes you sit up and lets your senses take notice. It’s a sublime beginning.

Next, a quintet of tender dumplings is stuffed with soft, creamy smoked potato and asparagus flavored with dill and fennel pollen. They resemble a pinwheel in a bowl fragrant with soy broth hinting of cardamom and chili oil. The stock is jam-packed with sesame seeds and the dumplings support a few sprigs of watercress.

Also, sommelier and general manager, Zach Groseclose, has assembled a superb selection of libations, from an elemental quintet of five spice inspired cocktails to a mouth-watering selection of white wines with the perfect crisp acidity to match the cuisine.

When given the dessert choice between kladdkaka and ebelskivers, we hardly know what to say. And I’m willing to bet your response would be similar to mine. Eh? Uh, could you please speak slowly into my ear trumpet . . . WTF . . . Oh, you’re speaking Swedish and Danish, respectively. The first is a brownie-like cake and the second are donut-esque pancakes. There’s also a spiced parsnip (a la carrot) cake with sweet mandarin cream.

Lingr, BTW comes from the “Old Norse” meaning both “belonging to” and “descending from.”

Chef Jew and his team invite us to belong—through great service and an evocative space (both inside and out) while providing cuisine exhibiting the magic combo of balance and surprise as he honors the cultures from which he descends. The results are simply a revelation.

Lingr Restaurant

400 6th St. S, St. Petersburg, FL

727-471-6120

website

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The drinks menu features a small handful of inventive cocktails that change seasonally. The wines reflect the global bistro with some of my favorites from California, namely Ridge, J Vineyards, and Conundrum, a unique white blend that perennially is a matching chameleon. My companion has “Autumn Orchard,” a yummy seasonal concoction that’s served with a colorful fall maple leaf attached to the lip of the coupe-shaped stemware with a mini-clothespin.

Initially, we have our eye on the delicious sounding Thai curry soup with Scottish salmon, green curry and a garnish of papaya-pepper relish. However, while bonding with our smiling, ever-attentive server, we decide that the heat may be too much for my dining companion. Spice is not everyone’s jam.

Executive chef Rob Scott offers other enticing options to begin your meal. But, we often opt for tuna tartare or crab cakes, and while the fried green tomatoes as the base for caprese are indeed tempting—especially with a dash of truffle oil—my partner’s eye and palate lands elsewhere. The lean bison meatballs in soft polenta tinged with asiago and thyme get our vote. What surprises is the marinara which has a clever, tasty addition of smoked strawberry that adds alluring grace notes. The twin meatballs are huge and glisten under thin shreds of freshly grated parmesan and a crispy fried basil leaf garnish. The orbs themselves are indeed lean, but they’re most flavorful. The question is one of density. My personal preference is for meatballs lightened with breadcrumbs and ricotta, but these are hearty and substantial with well-balanced seasoning. Just know going in that the texture is compact.

The entrées feature old favorites with a twist, like rum-brined duck breast or scallops with champagne lemon butter. Plus the ever popular beef filet, but this one is grass-fed. We finally settle on the lamb loin, sliced and tiled next to soft celery root mash with a crescent of elegant port wine demi-glace. The meat is tender, but cooked over our preferred temperature, which just shouldn’t happen in an experienced kitchen. The garnishes are three shades of scrumptious sweet heirloom carrots in a lovely honey-dill glaze with a pile of crispy battered shallots looking like diminutive onion rings.

The quartet of desserts all sound seductive—variations on flourless chocolate cake and a warm skillet blondie. They’ve swapped out the peach galette that’s shown in the online menu (due, I’m sure, to a lack of ripe peaches), so we head for the pumpkin crème brûlée—hey, it’s the taste of autumn even if we don’t have falling leaves to “drift by the window.” The round ramekin is large and sports a perfectly torched sugar crust, which is thick and evenly distributed. I love the sound of the crunch when your spoon breaks the surface to scoop up the luscious custard underneath. The pumpkin isn’t assertive and the texture is just scrumptious. My companion prefers it unadorned, but I like the addition of the candied pepitas which top a separate dish of cinnamon-tinged whipped cream that may be added to taste.

All told, it’s a lovely meal from top to bottom. The service could not be better, the environment is extremely pleasant, and despite a few quibbles, I look forward to returning on my own dime.

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Thanksgiving: You love and you hate it, but you’re probably going to have to celebrate it either with folks or at the bar. So watch some football and let yourself get that third helping of stuffing. If you’re headed out, here’s a list of Tampa Bay restaurants and bars running Thanksgiving specials and serving dine-in or takeout in the run up to the holidays.

4 Rivers Smokehouse Enjoy smoked meats, homestyle sides, and holiday desserts when you pre-order by 5 p.m. Nov. 21. All orders will be available for pickup (with reheating instructions) on Nov. 24. $10.79–$199. Various locations. 4rsmokehouse.com

7th & Grove Turn up with your pals at their 1st annual Friendsgiving event with food, a premium tequila tasting from Dobel, table games, and vibes. Guests are encouraged to follow a dress code of monochromatic fall colors. $55. Friday, Nov. 19 7 p.m.-9 p.m. 1930 7th Ave., Ybor City, 813-649-8422. eventbrite.com

7venth Sun Brewery Don’t miss out on a vegan Thanksgiving buffet with southern staples and holiday faves. Dishes include fried “turky” and “chikun” with gluten-free sides like garlic mashed potatoes, southern yams, and Cajun corn. Tuesday, Nov. 23 5 p.m.-8 p.m. $6-$39. 6809 N Nebraska Ave., Tampa, 813-231-5900. eventbrite.com 

American Social Put the apron down and pick up a full meal to-go. Includes a honey glazed ham, over roasted sliced turkey, or garlic and herb roasted prime rib plus a bevy of sides and wine. Pick up meal on Wednesday, Nov. 24 11 a.m.-8 p.m. $15-$275. 601 S Harbour Island Blvd. Unit 107, Tampa, 813-605-3333. americansocialbar.com

AJ’s Kitchen Drawer Cook a reimagined version of classic Thanksgiving dinner dishes like turkey roulade with sundried tomatoes and pumpkin pie brownies. Go back a couple days later to decorate cookies and make crafts with the kids. Class spaces are limited to 12-16 people. Friday-Sunday, Nov. 19-21. $40-50. 13978 W Hillsborough Ave., Tampa, 813-328-4122. ajskitchendrawer.com

Bayboro Brewing Come through the day before the festivities for $1 off beers plus free watermelon for the kids and pups. Brewery opens Wednesday, Nov. 24 at 4 p.m. 2390 5th Ave. S, St. Petersburg, 727-767-9666. bayborobrewing.com

The Capital Grille Favorites like pecan-crusted mashed sweet potatoes with hot honey and pumpkin cheesecake are on the table for a memorable experience. Full dinner menu is also available. Reservations recommended. Pre-order Thanksgiving sides for pickup Nov. 24-25. Children $15, adults $43 during dine-in. 2223 N West Shore Blvd., Tampa, 813-830-9433. thecapitalgrille.com

Dark Door Spirits Learn how to make handcrafted cocktails from master mixologist Shane Neukam during this Thanksgiving Cocktail class. Class includes a charcuterie board and premium tour of the distillery and gift shop. Wednesday, Nov. 17, 7 p.m. 8:30 p.m. $50. 6608 Anderson Rd., Tampa, 813-533-3781. darkdoorspirits.com

The Don CeSar Choose between a Thanksgiving brunch buffet equipped with a raw bar, omelets, and hand-carved meats or go to the hotel later in the day when Society Table hosts a three-course pre-fixe dinner with roasted pumpkin bisque and pan-seared halibut. $80-88 for adults, $29-40 for children 12 and under. Reservations recommended. 3400 Gulf Blvd., St. Petersburg, 727-360-1881. doncesar.com

Eddie V’s Dine-in for all the traditional faves like slow roasted turkey with Brioche Sage stuffing, hand-whipped potatoes, and baby French green beans. Seafood, steak, and the entire regular menu is also available. Reservations recommended. Thursday, Nov. 25, 11 a.m.-9 p.m. 4400 W Boy Scout Blvd. Tampa, 813-877-7290. eddiev.com

Élevage SoHo Kitchen & Bar A special family-style, three-course prix-fixe dinner is available to-go including caramelized sweet potatoes with pecans and molasses, rosemary & garlic crusted prime rib, and assorted desserts. $25 for children 12 and under, $50-$75 for adults based on entree price. 11 a.m.-8 p.m.1207 S Howard Ave., Tampa, 813-999-8726. epicureanhotel.com

Fleming’s Steakhouse Enjoy a 3-course menu featuring herb-roasted turkey, filet mignon, or prime bone-in ribeye. Meal includes an appetizer, sides, and dessert. Thursday, Nov. 25, 11 a.m.-8 p.m. 4322 W Boy Scout Blvd., Tampa, 813-874-9463. flemingssteakhouse.com

HEW Parlor & Chophouse Spend the day feasting family-style with a selection of entrees, sides, and desserts. $75 for adults, $25 for children 6-13, children 5 and under are free. Complimentary valet parking is available. Reservations recommended. Thursday, Nov. 25. 12 p.m.-8 p.m. 453 Edgewater Dr., Dunedin, 727-608-6620. fenwayhotel.com

Independent Bar & Cafe A pre-Turkey Day bash filled with beer and wine specials while DJ Mes gives the soulful vibes. Wednesday, Nov. 24. 5 p.m. 5016 N Florida Ave., Tampa, 813-341-4883. independentbartampa.com

Innisbrook Resort Stop by for a family-style meal or pick up to-go options on Thursday, Nov. 25 1 p.m.-3 p.m. 36750 U.S.-Hwy 19, Palm Harbor, 888-794-8627. innisbrookgolfresort.com

K Club Bar & Bistro The restaurant offers guests a 3-course, family-style, prix-fixe dinner. $14 for children, $36-44 for entrees. Complimentary self-parking is available. Reservations recommended. 3 p.m.-8 p.m. 2675 Ulmerton Rd., Clearwater, 727-273-8760. thekarolhotel.com.

Naked Farmer They’ll do the cooking, you can send the group text and let the fam know you’re getting dinner catered. Offered in limited quantities until Nov. 24. $25-420. Various locations. eatnakedfarmer.com

Rusty Pelican Give thanks with the whole family or friend group at a 3-course brunch or a la carte dinner. Reservations recommended. Thursday, Nov. 25 10 a.m.-9 p.m. $35-$75. 2425 Rocky Point Dr., Tampa, 813-281-1943. therustypelicantampa.com

Seasons 52 A classic holiday dinner with the freshest ingredients. Pre-order dinner for $175 until Monday, Nov. 22 and pick up Wednesday, Nov. 24. $16-$32.95 for dine-in. Also open Thursday, Nov. 25 11 a.m.-10 a.m. 204 N Westshore Blvd., Tampa, 813-286-1152. seasons52.com

Sheraton Tampa Riverwalk The hotel’s Rivers Edge Restaurant & Bar opens for an extraordinary buffet featuring a bourbon maple glaze roasted tom turkey, lavender cruised pork loin, and panoramic views of the Hillsborough River. Thursday, Nov. 25 11 a.m.-5 p.m. $20 for children, $45 for adults. 200 N Ashley Dr., Tampa, 813-226-4600. marriott.com

SiX A 3-course dinner with plenty of entrees like brie, apple, & beer bisque and veal ossobuco. $60 per person. Reservations recommended. 510 Water St., Tampa, 813-221-4950. sixtampa.com

Sugar Factory The Gobble Gobble Milkshake at the Seminole Hard Rock Hotel & Casino is a decadent shake mixed with pumpkin spice ice cream and decorated with sweet pumpkin mellowcreme, a milk chocolate turkey, festive sprinkles, and salted caramelized pepitas seeds then topped with a slice of pumpkin pie with whipped cream on top. Available until Nov. 30 for $21. 5223 S Orient Rd., Tampa, 813-521-4262. sugarfactory.com

Texas de Brazil Get in on the feasting as early as 11 a.m. with its regular menu and specialty holiday items. Thursday, Nov. 25, 11 a.m.-10 p.m. 4112 W Boy Scout Blvd., Tampa, 813-871-1400. texasdebrazil.com

University Area CDC A holiday drive-thru event with books, craft kits, a box of food, and a Thanksgiving meal to-go for the whole family. Call or visit the University Area Community Center to register for the event. Thursday, Nov. 18 5 p.m.-8 p.m. 14013 N 22nd St. Ste. A., Tampa, 813-558-5212. uacdc.com

Willa’s Sit back and relax with a “Big Willa Style'' Thanksgiving family meal. Guests can pair dinner with a curated wine package and custom seasonal bouquets from Arms of Persephone. Dine-in with some of the restaurant’s greatest hits or a holiday feast. Go next door for pumpkin pie soft serve at Willa’s Provisions. Pre-order takeout meal online for $450 or email hi@willastampa.com; pickup can be scheduled Wednesday, Nov. 24 9 a.m.-7 p.m. Reservations recommended or email for dine-in spot. 1700 W Fig St., Tampa, 813-519-4552. willastampa.com

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The post Tampa Bay bars and restaurants serving Thanksgiving dinner for dine-in and takeout appeared first on Creative Loafing Tampa.

The first forkful takes me by surprise. The slippery texture of the glass noodles is so lush as to be erotic. The stir fry flavors are perfectly balanced; a hint of spice from julienned red bell pepper, char from scallions, earthy bite from marinated shiitakes, some herbal spinach notes and the sweet crunch of carrots. The tamari-sesame sauce clings to and mellows each morsel. There’s harmony and joy even without the welcome addition of a sunny egg yolk that stares back from the center of your plate. This is Chef Noel Cruz’s triumphant japchae.

Gangchu Chicken & Beer
6618 N Nebraska Ave. Tampa
Shareables $6-$8; mains $10-$16; dessert $8; beer/wine/cocktails $4-$12
813-723-4264 (GANG); eatgangchu.com
4 stars

But Chef Cruz is much more than a one-trick pony. Everything we sample at Gangchu Chicken and Beer in Seminole Heights puts a smile on our faces. Ostensibly, they celebrate Korean style chicken and beer, but the menu is so much more.

Take, for instance, the fried vegetable dumplings which we choose to share instead of loaded Korean fries. The small crisp chestnut colored pockets are stuffed with glass noodles mixed with bits of kimchi, red bell pepper and carrots. One dip in the tamari-vinegar adds just enough kick and complexity to make your palate stand up and take notice.

What the aforementioned japchae is to texture, the kimchi fried rice is to spice. It’s got plenty of chunky onions and toasted sesame seeds, but what makes it roar on the palate is gochujang, Korea’s distinctive red chili paste plus an ample garnish of cross cut green onion rounds and toasted sesame seeds. It’s just flat out delicious without too much kick for tender palates.

 As for the chicken in the title, we skip the wings (available with or without bones) and go straight to the crispy kimchi-brined chicken breast sandwich. Like the wings, it can be tossed in a quintet of sauces. Our server shares that their favorite is “sweet chili garlic.” That’s a wise choice; the crisp, golden coating envelops the juicy white chicken meat, but what really makes it sing is the Gangchu perilla ranch dressing. Perilla is a leaf in the mint family (think Japanese shiso), but it imparts a tinge of licorice which marries perfectly with the housemade pickles. The thin cucumber rounds retain some crunch, but add just enough vinegary bite to balance all the other flavors and to make you exclaim an unconscious, “WOW,” as you try not to talk with a full mouth. If you want a lesson in how artisanal condiments make your palate dance, this is it. And it all sits lusciously on a buttery potato bun.

The pickles are part of the array of “banchan,” or sides, that are made with such care that each one delivers in spades—from tart squares of pickled daikon radish, to fermented kimchi, marinated bean sprouts and creamy potato salad. The chicken sandwich includes a mound of long, thin cut fries dotted with Korean dry rub, which imparts loads of flavor, but they could be crispier. The flavors are so distinctive, though, that I’m not in the mood to quibble.

The beer menu largely showcases local craft brews; the lone Korean brand is Terra, an easy drinking lager which proves a refreshing choice. I’m partial to dark spirits, so I select The Shadowlawn cocktail, which is spin on a Boulevardier combining rye whiskey, cocchi Torino (sweet vermouth), Gangchu banana liqueur, tropical dram, and a coconut-infused Campari. The tropical notes are subtle, but the result is a complex delight.

The only sweet offering is fritter style bread pudding, which is essentially thick cut French toast. The quartet of custard-soaked bread triangles is luscious, but what wins the day is the honey-whipped cream laced with ginger and orange zest. It’s simple, but just sublime—don’t miss it.        

And I can’t fail to mention the allure of the carefully designed space. First of all, as you approach, look up. The underside of the canopy features an enthralling assortment of mammoth, brightly-colored flowers. Even though we’re all vaccinated, we’re happy that there’s a spacious outdoor patio accessible through the sleek modern space. We pass by eight huge monitors grouped into two quartets at one end. The indoor-outdoor bar also makes a distinct impression—with a floating cage above—glistening with bottles and upside-down bar glasses reflecting neon blue.

The pandemic took a heavy toll on the restaurant world. Cruz’s Seminole Heights flagship, Ichicoro Ramen survived through takeout and delivery, but St. Pete’s wonderful Ichicoro Ane is still shuttered.  Cruz’s takeaway for the industry is that in order to be sustainable and profitable, to-go operations will be essential for most restaurants’ survival; fast casual is a more nimble model than fine dining. And with Gangchu, he’s hit the bullseye.

Support local journalism in these crazy days. Our small but mighty team works tirelessly to bring you news on how coronavirus is affecting Tampa Bay and surrounding areas all while giving you the food and drink news you crave. Please consider making a one time or monthly donation to help support our staff. Every little bit helps.

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It’s always interesting to see the transformation of a neighborhood. Hyde Park has been a desirable residential Tampa address since the late 19th century. The 1980s saw the rise of Hyde Park Village around the iconic circle fountain. And now, in the 21st century, development has come to North Hyde Park or “NoHo.” Where there once was a lumberyard at W Fig Street and N Rome Avenue, is now Havana Square’s inspiring industrial style apartments leaving “the bland behind.” Just to the east is the urban chic of NoHo Flats with a salt water pool, private cabanas and a dog park.

Willa’s
1700 W. Fig St., Tampa
Snacks, appetizers $5 – $18; entrées $19 – $27; desserts $4 – $12; beer, wine/cocktails $3 – $14
4 stars
813-519-4552
willastampa.com

It’s here, on the southwest corner with free ginormous designated parking, that Nate Siegel and Merrin Jenkins built Willa’s, a welcoming, family-friendly gathering place for the neighborhood named for Jenkins great-great-grandmother. Chef Gabriel Lopez’s menu is an eclectic mix built around comforting free-range rotisserie chicken with salsa verde, steak frites, and a unique potato chip omelette with herby mascarpone. It’s also got plenty of veggie/vegan options.

Head bartenders Mercedes Mestizo and Amber Carregal have curated a menu of craft cocktails and selective wine choices for every palate. Plus they serve their own 3-day cold brew tonic and ginger beer on tap. I can’t resist trying the triple-filtered ginger beer, which turns out to be terrific. It’s the anchor of Willa’s version of a Moscow mule called “Gingers Rule.” I skip the spirits to focus on the mixer. The glass is milky, instead of clear like a commercial product. The fresh ginger dominates with lemon oil and lime acid as part of the mix. It’s assertive and ambrosial.

The food menu offers a series of mix-and-match snacks (olives, pickles, almonds, chips, etc.); try them all if you’ve got a crowd. We begin with two well-conceived and executed starters. The whipped ricotta on sourdough toast is elevated by a magical alchemy of Florida honey plus roasted hazelnuts; the result is a taste treat where the whole transcends the sum of its parts.

Another lovely French-inflected starter is hand-chopped beef sirloin tartare tossed with minced shallots in Dijonaise and pressed neatly into an oval mold. It’s garnished with micro green leaves and a fan of diminutive cornichons sliced lengthwise. A conga line of homemade deep, crisp golden potato chips coated with delicious “noochy” (vegan yeast) circles the beef just begging to be combined.

The filet of seared New Zealand Ōra King salmon lives up to its comparison to Japanese wagyu beef. The high fat content gives it a silky smooth mouthfeel under a miso glaze.  It’s plated with roasted purple and orange carrots, snap peas, and edamame that retain al dente crunch. The veggies are dotted with black and white sesame seeds and distinctive heat, which might challenge tender palates. On our visit, they also displayed a heavy hand on the salt.

The porchetta-spiced, panko-crusted pork schnitzel is pounded thin and fried to a beautiful golden brown. With a spritz of fresh lemon and a dip in the cup of tangy, whole grain mustard sauce, it transports you to Vienna. And the lightly dressed pile of large mixed greens is the perfect tart accompaniment.

Pastry chef Lyndsey Sanford’s carrot cake is delightful. The cake is moist with balanced spices. The traditional cream cheese frosting has been displaced by white chocolate buttercream which is too cold to deliver the creamy texture that lurks within. This is a conundrum for a restaurant kitchen which can’t hold a cake at room temperature. My suggestion is to order this cake with your appetizer to allow the buttercream time to warm to decadent lushness. An extra touch is a thin topping of caramel with an outer ring of matching mini malt balls for added crunch. Other temptations are a cobbler, brownie, cookie, pot de créme or a root beer float with orange cream (yum!).

The staff is friendly and attentive and the attractive open space sports curved blond rattan cane chairs. They surround painted coral-colored molded wrought iron bases that harken back to an earlier time. But the overall impression is crisp, clean-lines, modern and welcoming—with huge contemporary abstract paintings flanking an equally oversized mirror. There's also a section with upholstered booths and a handsome, multi-tiered backlit bar showcasing an impressive array of spirits. The century-old 4,700 square foot space also includes the separate Willa’s Provisions, a 12-seat cafe with baked goods, King State coffee plus grab-and-go items to nosh. It’s a great shortcut to your car after the happiest of meals.

UPDATED 10/07/21 2:45 p.m. Updated Willa's staff.

Support local journalism in these crazy days. Our small but mighty team works tirelessly to bring you news on how coronavirus is affecting Tampa Bay and surrounding areas all while giving you the food and drink news you crave. Please consider making a one time or monthly donation to help support our staff. Every little bit helps.

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The post Willa’s makes for the happiest of meals in Tampa’s North Hyde Park appeared first on Creative Loafing Tampa.